“一包白菜一捆蔥，歡歡喜喜過(guò)一冬。”對(duì)于許多北方人，尤其是老一輩而言，初冬時(shí)節(jié)囤積大白菜，是刻在記憶里的“頭等大事”。

每當(dāng)卡車滿載著層層疊疊的白菜駛?cè)虢值?，人們便自發(fā)排起長(zhǎng)隊(duì)，一買就是上百斤，仿佛北方冬日來(lái)臨前特有的儀式感。

For many residents of North China, especially among the older generation, stocking up on Chinese cabbage is a seasonal ritual that heralds the arrival of winter.

A common sight each year is trucks laden with fresh Chinese cabbages rolling into neighborhoods, where residents line up to buy them by the hundreds of pounds.

在物資尚不豐裕的年代，大白菜以親民的價(jià)格和出色的耐儲(chǔ)性，成為千家萬(wàn)戶餐桌上的“主角”。如今，冬季蔬菜供應(yīng)日益豐富多元，囤白菜已然成為一種承載著情感與記憶的文化傳統(tǒng)。

In earlier times, when food options were limited, the affordable and durable Chinese cabbage reigned supreme on dinner tables throughout the cold months. Today, the annual Chinese cabbage purchase has become a cherished tradition for many northerners.

然而，當(dāng)今消費(fèi)者在冬季蔬菜儲(chǔ)備上，追求的已不僅僅是“量”的充足帶來(lái)的安全感，更注重“質(zhì)”的享受。白菜的品種、口感成為關(guān)鍵，小棵型、高品質(zhì)的精品白菜正成為市場(chǎng)新寵。

However, modern consumers are now prioritizing quality over quantity, with greater attention given to variety, texture, and taste.

眼下又到了北京冬儲(chǔ)大白菜上市的季節(jié)。在距離北京130多公里的河北玉田縣，菜農(nóng)們正忙碌地采收，為保障首都冬季“菜籃子”供應(yīng)做足準(zhǔn)備。

This year's winter Chinese cabbage supply season has begun. In Yutian county, Hebei province, farmers are busy harvesting Chinese cabbage to ensure steady supply to neighboring regions, including Beijing.

這里的玉田包尖白菜，因其耐貯藏、不易抽薹（開(kāi)花）的特性，一直是京津地區(qū)冬儲(chǔ)白菜的首選。立冬前后，菜農(nóng)們將一棵棵葉球直筒擰抱、頂部尖聳的包尖白菜砍下，細(xì)致地剝?nèi)ネ鈱永先~，整齊碼放，最終運(yùn)往北京最大的農(nóng)產(chǎn)品交易市場(chǎng)新發(fā)地。

Prized for its excellent storage quality and resistance to bolting, Chinese cabbage grown in Yutian has long been the preferred choice for residents in Beijing and Tianjin.

“玉田白菜甜脆，做餡不出水，清鮮；炒著吃也自帶一股香味?！北本┦忻裢跖康脑u(píng)價(jià)，道出了許多人的喜好。

“The variety from Yutian is sweet and crisp. When used in fillings, it doesn’t release much water, so the taste stays fresh. When stir-fried, it has a natural fragrance all its own,” said Wang Yuzhi, a 63-year-old Beijing resident.

這份獨(dú)特的風(fēng)味從何而來(lái)？白菜育種專家張淑江研究員揭示了其中的奧秘：玉田縣的地下水中，偏硅酸和鍶的含量達(dá)到了國(guó)家礦泉水標(biāo)準(zhǔn)，加之肥沃的土壤與適宜的季風(fēng)氣候，共同造就了包尖白菜“幫薄味甜、纖維少、水分足”的卓越品質(zhì)。

科技的加持讓傳統(tǒng)品種煥發(fā)新生。張淑江研究員團(tuán)隊(duì)培育的白菜新品種“綠筍70”，展現(xiàn)了出色的抗逆性和生長(zhǎng)勢(shì)頭。面對(duì)今年玉田地區(qū)的持續(xù)陰雨天氣，“綠筍70”依然保持了高產(chǎn)優(yōu)質(zhì)，顯著提升了種植效益和市場(chǎng)競(jìng)爭(zhēng)力。

Zhang Shujiang, a Chinese cabbage breeding expert, and his team have developed a new hybrid variety named Lyusun 70, which shows remarkable resilience and vigorous growth. Despite persistent rainy weather this year in Yutian, Lyusun 70 maintained high yield and quality, boosting both profits and market competitiveness.

農(nóng)民合作社負(fù)責(zé)人蔡連柱（左）與張淑江研究員（右）在玉田縣的白菜田交流

“這個(gè)雜交一代新品種，植株直立，葉球擰抱像顆炮彈。它不僅抗性強(qiáng)、極耐儲(chǔ)藏，而且質(zhì)地甘脆，生熟皆可，入鍋易熟爛?！睆埵缃榻B道。在2025年第八屆京津冀蔬菜產(chǎn)業(yè)發(fā)展大會(huì)上，“玉田包尖白菜”多項(xiàng)營(yíng)養(yǎng)指標(biāo)被檢測(cè)出高于全國(guó)樣品平均值18.7%至47.6%，品質(zhì)獲得權(quán)威認(rèn)可。

“It’s a first-generation hybrid with upright plants and tightly wrapped leaves shaped like a shell. In addition to its strong disease resistance, it stores well and has a sweet, crisp texture, making it suitable for both raw and cooked dishes.”

據(jù)新發(fā)地市場(chǎng)數(shù)據(jù)，玉田縣每年供應(yīng)北京的冬儲(chǔ)大白菜超過(guò)30萬(wàn)噸，其中包尖白菜的供應(yīng)量超過(guò)7.5萬(wàn)噸。此外，玉田蔬菜已與“超市發(fā)”等大型連鎖商超建立了長(zhǎng)期穩(wěn)定的合作關(guān)系。

According to data from the Xinfadi market, a wholesale food market in Beijing's Fengtai district, the county supplies over 300,000 metric tons of winter Chinese cabbages to Beijing annually, with the variety from Yutian accounting for more than 75,000 tons.

在這個(gè)物流發(fā)達(dá)、四季菜蔬琳瑯滿目的時(shí)代，大白菜不再僅僅是過(guò)冬的儲(chǔ)備，更承載著北方人充滿煙火氣的冬日記憶。

記者：趙伊夢(mèng)

實(shí)習(xí)生：靳佳欣

跟著China Daily

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