潮州鹵味拼盤制作實(shí)錄：十五年主廚的鹵水核心操作

好學(xué)漂流瓶XfZhQah

做鹵味這些年，最常被問鹵水配方能不能簡化，答案就一句——?jiǎng)e糊弄那鍋湯。雞架子三副、豬筒骨兩斤、市場撿的鵝脖子骨架別扔，冷水下鍋焯透血沫，記得水要沒過骨頭兩指高。大火燒開轉(zhuǎn)小火這步急不得，浮沫撇得越勤快，湯底越清亮，熬到三小時(shí)左右湯色開始泛白膠質(zhì)就出來了。

香料包得自己配，八角桂皮香葉是基礎(chǔ)款，草果拍裂味道才出得來，小茴香捏一小撮足夠。見過有人亂放丁香結(jié)果整鍋發(fā)苦，香料袋扎緊扔進(jìn)骨湯里，老抽上色生抽提鮮，冰糖得用黃冰糖塊，咸淡靠鹽不是靠醬油。火候這事吧，保持湯面似開非開的狀態(tài)最穩(wěn)妥，咕嘟著小泡熬四小時(shí)打底，廚房飄著那種復(fù)合香氣才算及格。

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鵝肉處理有講究，選兩年以上的獅頭鵝皮下脂肪才夠厚。鵝翅鵝掌提前用姜蔥料酒搓洗去腥，鵝胗打上花刀方便入味。鹵水燒到滾開再下料，鵝肉皮朝下浸沒湯汁，瞬間收縮能鎖住肉汁。定時(shí)器擰四十分鐘，鵝掌鵝翅要多熬二十分鐘，用筷子戳鵝掌關(guān)節(jié)能輕松穿透就關(guān)火。別急著撈！泡在溫鹵水里晾涼，肉質(zhì)吸飽汁水才潤。

撈出來控干鹵汁的功夫，砧板擦凈別沾水。鵝肉逆紋切薄片能看到肉絲間鹵汁的晶亮，鵝掌從中剖開別切斷保持造型，鵝翅順著關(guān)節(jié)拆件擺盤省得客人上手啃。拼盤底下墊層鹵豆腐干吸油，頂上澆兩勺溫?zé)岬柠u汁——必須是原湯，勾芡兌水那種假亮光騙不過老饕。

試過十七八種八角，最后固定用廣西產(chǎn)的大角瓣，香氣沖但不刺鼻。香料攤老板總推薦貴的“特級(jí)貨”，其實(shí)普通草果捏著硬實(shí)沒空心就行。熬鹵水那天別安排其他炒菜，灶臺(tái)邊得有人盯著添水，湯少了直接加熱水會(huì)腥。老鹵續(xù)湯也有門道，每次補(bǔ)新湯得按比例加香料鹽糖，隔夜煮沸再冷藏能養(yǎng)十幾年。

第一次做建議別用整鵝，單鹵鵝翅試試火候。肉鋪挑顏色鮮亮帶彈性的，冷凍貨鹵完縮水厲害。家里火不夠旺就分兩次熬，頭天準(zhǔn)備好骨湯第二天再下香料。剩的鹵汁濾干凈渣冷凍起來，下回煮牛腱子豬耳朵照樣香。鹵味上桌配碟蒜泥白醋解膩，米飯得多煮兩碗——這話說早了，反正做成功那天沒人顧得上聊天。

鹵完的鵝油別浪費(fèi)，晾涼了撇出來。煮面條挖一勺，燙青菜淋半匙，比超市賣的香精油強(qiáng)百倍。廚房窗戶記得開縫，不然衣服被子全是八角味，上周三忘了關(guān)窗，晾的襯衫被老婆念叨到現(xiàn)在。偶爾失手很正常，鹵咸了切薄片當(dāng)咸菜配粥，淡了回鍋加料再燜半小時(shí)。做菜嘛，鍋鏟底下練出來的手感比菜譜靠譜。