云肩,又稱“披肩”“搭肩”,是中國(guó)古代置于肩部的裝飾織物,最初用于保護(hù)領(lǐng)口和肩部清潔,后演變?yōu)椴叔\繡制的裝飾物,其紋樣如云霞彩虹,故得名。云肩起源可追溯至秦朝的披帛和帔子,明清時(shí)期發(fā)展至鼎盛,成為貴族女性地位象征,清代普及至各階層,婚嫁時(shí)青年婦女必備。
The yunjian—often translated as a "shoulder drape" or "cape collar"—is a traditional Chinese textile accessory worn gracefully over the shoulders. What began as a practical layer to protect collars and garments from wear gradually transformed into an exquisite work of art, typically crafted from silk and brocade. The yunjian traces its origins to the pibo (long silk drapes worn over the shoulders) and pei (shawl-like garments) of the Qin dynasty. It reached its peak popularity during the Ming and Qing dynasties, where it became a symbol of noblewomen’s social status. By the Qing period, the yunjian had spread across all social classes and was considered an essential component of bridal attire for young women.
云肩也叫披肩,多以絲緞織錦制作,大多數(shù)云肩用四個(gè)云紋組成,叫四合如意式,還有柳葉式、荷花式等等,上面都有吉祥命題,例如富貴牡丹、多福多壽、連年有魚等等。明清的時(shí)候流行很多,大多都在婚慶喜宴等場(chǎng)合使用。
Usually made of satin or brocade, yunjian designs often feature four interlinked cloud motifs—known as the "Four-in-One Auspicious Style". Other well-known forms include the willow-leaf and lotus-petal shapes. Each decorative motif carries symbolic meaning: peonies represent wealth, bats symbolize blessings and longevity, and fish suggest abundance year after year. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, the yunjian was especially favored at weddings and festive ceremonies.
云肩,“天人合一”的文化創(chuàng)意,來(lái)自于中國(guó)為代表的東方文化思維方式,是綜合性的講究萬(wàn)物之間的相互包容與和諧。其裝飾圖案內(nèi)涵豐富,符號(hào)的藝術(shù)語(yǔ)言,數(shù)字的寓意,文化底蘊(yùn)哲理深邃;云肩,也是中國(guó)服裝史上,平面與立體設(shè)計(jì)巧妙構(gòu)思的典范。
Beyond its elegance, the yunjian reflects the traditional Chinese philosophy of harmony between heaven and humanity. Its motifs are rich with symbolism, its forms embody a unique visual language, and even its numerical patterns carry cultural significance. Celebrated as a masterpiece of craftsmanship in the history of Chinese dress, the yunjian seamlessly unites flat textile design with three-dimensional artistry, offering a vivid expression of China's timeless aesthetics.
責(zé)編:李一珊
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